Assembling Your Dock Kit

• Some larger orders may be shipped LTL (Less than Truckload), where you will be required to schedule a delivery and be present when your order is dropped off.
• Before the driver leaves, check the bill of lading and be sure all floats and hardware boxes are present and undamaged.
• If anything is missing or damaged, do not sign for the order; let the driver know you will not sign for the incomplete or damaged order, and contact The Dock Shop immediately.
• Once delivery is confirmed, open the boxes and take inventory of all hardware before you start cutting lumber.

• Assess final platform size based on your lumber. Your final dimensions may be an inch or two shorter or longer depending on how you lay your framing.
• Measure your actual float width before cutting - manufacturing tolerance means it won't always match the nominal size. A common scenario: a nominal 48" float measures closer to 47.25", and the frame should be built to that real number.
• Mark joist layout on your end boards at 16" on-center before assembling. Draw a square line at each mark plus an X for where the joist sits to support square joist installs later in the build process.
• Most decking options - including nearly all composite - need support every 16" on-center, so keep that spacing consistent across the module.
• Cut and lay out all lumber for each module before you start assembling, ensuring you hit your target dimensions.

• If you're building a larger module right side up, lay out your floats first, then assemble the frame on top of them so you don't have to move the finished module later.
• Tack the frame together with a framing nailer or screws first. These aren't structural - they just hold everything in place while you install brackets.
• Work down the line, making sure each joist lines up with your previous center and square marks before fastening.
• This is a good opportunity to add blocking anywhere a joist doesn't line up with a float's attachment slot, if required. You want each float to have a minimum of four attachment points. Be sure to use structural 3" outdoor-rated screws for all blocking.

• Start with the outside corner brackets. Position the bracket pair by hand and use them to mark your bolt holes - using a 1/2" bit, drill straight through so it exits cleanly through the inner bracket too.
• As soon as the first hole is drilled, drop a bolt in and tighten it. That keeps the bracket from shifting while you drill the rest.
• Washer and nut go on the inside. An impact driver with a 3/4" (19mm) socket will come in very handy to speed up the tightening process.
• After the corners, move on to the angle brackets - one for each joist/frame intersection.
• Finally, if utilizing a stringer across the bottom of the platform, mount the stringer with an angle bracket at each joist intersection.

• Mount your connection hardware at the correct spacing to line up with the connection hardware on the module they'll join.
• Install any pile guides, chain retainers, or other accessorial hardware you plan to use.
• Add 2x6 blocking for any accessories you want to bolt onto the decking later, like ladders, bench brackets, or cleats.

• With the float in position, place the halfmoon washer into the rib on the float, center the lag bolt on the 2x6, and tighten.
• Check that the float hasn't shifted, then install the remaining bolts - minimum four attachment points per float.
• As stated in Chapter 3, additional blocking may be required to ensure the float has a minimum of four viable attachment points to the frame.
• The floats are shipped with a small vent that acts like a "breathing hole" - allowing hot air to escape the float and prevent swelling. Each float will have a small bag with vent plugs, meant to seal these holes once in the water.

• Decking may be installed prior to launch or after, depending on your equipment available to move the dock. Adding decking adds weight, so some builders will choose to add the decking after the frame is already launched into the water.
• Boards should be installed perpendicular to your joists, providing support to the deck boards every 16".
• Make sure that first board is dead straight, as that will set the measure and direction for all the rest. A crooked starting board will result in a crooked dock.
• Ensure you provide the proper spacing between deck boards/pieces, per your chosen material. Standard lumber deck boards will require 1/4" of space between each board.
• Optional: After your boards are installed, make a clean cut with a circular saw down the edge of the dock to establish a clean-cut edge.

• Repeat the same sequence for each module: cut lumber → frame → hardware → floats → decking.

• Once modules are fully decked, strap them down and transport to the water - or slide them straight in if you built on shore.
• Move slowly and evenly. Avoid twisting, dropping, or catching edges, all of which put strain on the hardware, floats, and framing.
• Plan for help: even a non-decked dock frame + floats can weigh several hundred pounds. This is NOT a 1 person job. Ensuring you have the proper help will protect both you and your new dock.

• How you anchor to the shoreline will depend on your environment and specific dock needs. Consider the currents, wake, and water level changes as you assess the proper approach to shoreline anchorage.
• Many people opt for anchoring to set posts above the high water line (as in the video). Instructions for this method are as follows:
  • Dig two holes and set treated posts (6x6 in the video) in concrete, positioned above your high water line.
  • Once the concrete has cured, drill and bolt your connection hardware directly to the posts.
  • Float the walkway over and pin it to those connectors.
  • (Optional): Finish the transition by furring out past the bolts and capping with matching deck boards for a seamless step-off.

Your platform needs to stay put against wind, wakes, and current. There are multiple approaches to anchoring, but the two most common approaches for DIY docks will be piles and dropped-chain anchors. The video demonstrates driven piles, and instructions for chained anchors can also be found below.

Method A - Driven Piles (shown in video)

• Drive galvanized steel pipe down through the piling guides you bolted on in Chapter 5.
• Use standard schedule 40 pipe, or source galvanized pipe in custom lengths from a local supplier.
• Pipe length depends on your water depth and seasonal water-level swing.
• Take special care to ensure your pipes go directly (square) into the water to ensure the dock can float freely along the piles.
• This method is best for firm bottoms that will hold a driven pipe.

Method B - Dropped / Chained Anchors

• Drop anchors (concrete blocks, buckets of concrete, or dedicated boat anchors) and chain them to each corner of the platform utilizing our Chain Retainers for easy adjustment throughout the year.
• Run chains in a criss-cross pattern - each corner crossing underneath to the opposite corner - to resist drift and rotation.
• Best for soft or uneven bottoms where a pile won't hold, or when the dock comes out seasonally.

• After 24–72 hours: check and re-tighten key bolts (corners, joist brackets, connection points), check float attachment bolts are seated, confirm modules still sit square.
• After the first windy day: check anchors haven't shifted, look for chain or line rubbing, confirm connection pins and safety clips are fully seated.
• Seasonally: check for loose deck boards, raised fasteners, and any hardware showing corrosion.